Accessories

A small pressurized tank installed on the cold water inlet that absorbs excess pressure caused by thermal expansion when water is heated in a closed plumbing system.

Without an expansion tank in a closed system, thermal expansion can damage the water heater, plumbing fittings, and fixtures. Pressure spikes can cause T&P valve discharge or premature tank failure.

A cartridge or canister filled with calcium carbite or limestone media that raises the pH of acidic condensate produced by high-efficiency condensing water heaters before it enters the drain system.

Condensing water heaters produce condensate with a pH of 3-5, acidic enough to corrode cast iron drain pipes, damage septic systems, and violate municipal wastewater discharge limits.

A small electric pump that collects and removes condensate when a gravity drain to a floor drain or sink is not available.

Heat pump and condensing gas water heaters produce condensate that must be drained. If the unit is not located near a floor drain, a condensate pump is the only way to move the water to a suitable drain point.

A valve installed on the hot water outlet that blends hot and cold water to deliver water at a safe, consistent temperature, preventing scalding while allowing the tank to store water at higher temperatures for increased capacity and Legionella prevention.

Allows the water heater to operate at 140°F for Legionella prevention and increased effective capacity while delivering 120°F or lower to fixtures to prevent scalding. Required in many jurisdictions for new installations.

A corrosion-resistant metal or plastic pan placed beneath the water heater to catch leaks, drips, or T&P valve discharge, with a drain fitting connected to an approved drainage point.

Protects floors, ceilings below, and surrounding structures from water damage if the tank leaks or the T&P valve discharges. Insurance claims from water heater leaks are among the most common homeowner claims.

Heavy-duty metal straps that secure a water heater to the wall studs to prevent it from tipping, sliding, or falling during an earthquake.

An unsecured water heater can topple during an earthquake, rupturing gas and water lines, causing fires, flooding, and injury. A fallen gas water heater is a serious fire and explosion risk.

Short pipe fittings with built-in check valves (ball or flapper type) installed on the hot and cold water connections to prevent heat loss through thermosiphoning (natural convection moving hot water into supply pipes).

Without heat traps, hot water slowly rises through the outlet pipe by convection even when no faucet is open, wasting energy. Heat traps can reduce standby heat loss and save $15-$30 per year on energy costs. Many also serve as dielectric unions to prevent galvanic corrosion.

A flexible stainless steel connector that provides the final connection between the gas supply line and the water heater, allowing for minor alignment adjustments and vibration isolation.

Provides a safe, code-compliant gas connection that accommodates minor movement. Rigid connections are more prone to cracking or leaking from settling or thermal expansion.

The vent pipe system that exhausts combustion gases from a gas water heater to the outdoors. Includes vent pipe, connectors, termination cap, and support brackets.

Proper venting is critical for safety. Combustion gases contain carbon monoxide, which is lethal in enclosed spaces. Incorrect venting can cause backdrafting, CO poisoning, and fire hazards.

Piping that routes condensate from high-efficiency water heaters to an appropriate drain. Includes tubing, fittings, P-trap, and routing to floor drain, standpipe, or condensate pump.

High-efficiency condensing gas water heaters and heat pump water heaters produce significant condensate that must be properly drained to prevent water damage, mold, and code violations.

A dedicated 240V electrical circuit with appropriately sized breaker and wiring to power an electric or heat pump water heater. Breaker size depends on the unit's wattage rating. Always match to the manufacturer's specification.

Electric water heaters draw significant power (4,500W typical) and require a dedicated circuit per NEC. An undersized circuit is a fire hazard. Upgrading from gas to electric/heat pump often requires running a new circuit.

Braided stainless steel flexible connectors for the hot and cold water supply lines to the water heater. Accommodates minor alignment differences between new and old unit.

Provides a reliable, leak-resistant connection that absorbs vibration and minor movement. Many installers prefer flexible connectors, though rigid copper connections are also common.

A raised platform that elevates the water heater off the floor, providing protection from flooding, easier drain access, and code compliance in garages.

Required by code in garages to elevate ignition sources above floor level. Also protects against minor flooding and makes drain valve access easier for maintenance.

Fittings that connect dissimilar metals (such as copper pipe to a steel tank nipple) while preventing galvanic corrosion through a non-conductive plastic liner.

Prevents galvanic corrosion where copper pipe meets steel tank fittings. Many modern water heaters include dielectric heat trap nipples that may eliminate the need for separate unions. Check manufacturer requirements.

Tool-free plumbing fittings that create watertight connections by simply pushing a pipe into the fitting. Compatible with copper, PEX, and CPVC pipe.

Eliminates the need for soldering, crimping, or threading on water supply connections. Reduces installation time. Note: plumbing code in some jurisdictions restricts their use in concealed spaces.

A metal rod (magnesium, aluminum, or zinc-aluminum alloy) suspended inside the tank that corrodes preferentially to protect the steel tank lining from rust. As the anode rod dissolves, it prevents the tank from corroding.

The anode rod is the primary defense against tank corrosion. Once the anode is depleted, the tank itself begins to rust, leading to leaks and premature failure. Regular replacement can extend tank life by 5-10 years.

A pump that circulates hot water through the plumbing system so hot water is available almost instantly at fixtures, eliminating the wait for hot water and reducing water waste.

The average household wastes 12,000+ gallons of water per year waiting for hot water to arrive at fixtures. A recirculation pump provides near-instant hot water and can save significantly on water bills, especially in larger homes.

A fiberglass or reflective foil blanket wrapped around the outside of a storage tank water heater to reduce standby heat loss through the tank walls.

Can reduce standby heat losses by 25-45% and save 7-16% on water heating costs according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Most effective on older tanks with lower factory insulation (R-value below R-16).

Pre-slit foam tubes that insulate hot water pipes to reduce heat loss as water travels from the heater to fixtures.

Insulating the first 3-6 feet of hot and cold pipes at the water heater reduces standby heat loss and delivers hotter water faster to fixtures. DOE estimates 2-4% energy savings.

A programmable switch that controls when the water heater operates, allowing it to heat water only during off-peak hours or when hot water is actually needed.

Can reduce energy costs by 5-12% by heating water during off-peak utility rate periods. Especially valuable with time-of-use electricity pricing. Note: most modern heat pump water heaters have built-in scheduling.

An electronic device that detects water leaks near the water heater and either alerts the homeowner or automatically shuts off the water supply to prevent flooding and water damage.

Water heater leaks are one of the top causes of residential water damage. Early detection can prevent thousands of dollars in damage. Automatic shutoff systems can stop leaks even when no one is home.